Proper Cauliflower Cheese

Ingredients

• 1 large head Cauliflower, in florets
• 4 tbsp butter
• 4 tbsp all-purpose flour
• 2½ cups whole milk
• 6 oz mature cheddar, grated
• 2 tsp English mustard
• ¼ tsp grated nutmeg
• ⅓ cup breadcrumbs
• 2 tbsp grated parmesan
• Salt and black pepper

Method

1. Boil the Cauliflower florets in well-salted water for 5 minutes only — they finish in the oven, and boiling them to submission is why this dish gets a bad reputation. Drain very well and let them steam dry.
2. Melt the butter, whisk in the flour, and cook 2 minutes until it smells nutty. Add the milk in stages, whisking hard after each, until you have a smooth sauce that coats a spoon.
3. Off the heat, stir in most of the cheddar, the mustard, nutmeg, salt, and a lot of pepper. Adding cheese off the heat keeps the sauce from turning grainy.
4. Arrange the florets stem-down in a baking dish and pour the sauce over, working it into the gaps.
5. Mix the breadcrumbs, parmesan, and remaining cheddar and scatter over the top.
6. Bake at 425°F (220°C) for 20–25 minutes, until the top is bronzed and the sauce bubbles up around the edges. Rest 5 minutes before serving.