Hünkar Beğendi — Lamb Shoulder on Smoked Eggplant Cream

Ingredients

• 1¼ lb Lamb Shoulder, in 1-inch cubes
• 3 large eggplants
• 1 onion, diced
• 2 tbsp tomato paste
• 2 tomatoes, chopped
• 2 cups stock
• 3 tbsp butter
• 3 tbsp flour
• 1½ cups whole milk, warmed
• ½ cup grated kaşar or mild cheddar
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• Salt, black pepper, and a grating of nutmeg

Method

1. Brown the Lamb Shoulder hard in the olive oil, in batches, until every side has color. Add the onion, cook 5 minutes, then the tomato paste for 2 more. Add the tomatoes and stock, cover, and simmer 50–60 minutes until the meat gives to a fork.
2. Meanwhile char the eggplants whole directly over a gas flame or under a broiler, turning until the skins are blackened and the flesh has collapsed, 15–20 minutes. That smoke is the entire personality of the dish.
3. Scoop the hot flesh into a colander and let it drain 10 minutes, then chop it to a rough purée. Toss with a squeeze of lemon to stop it browning.
4. Melt the butter, whisk in the flour, and cook 2 minutes until it smells like biscuits but stays pale. Add the warm milk in three additions, whisking smooth each time, and simmer until it coats the back of a spoon.
5. Beat the eggplant into the béchamel with the cheese, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Keep it over low heat, stirring, until thick enough to hold a spoon upright — thin cream will just drown under the stew.
6. Spread the eggplant cream across warm plates, spoon the braise and its sauce into the middle, and serve at once.